Chasing Waterfalls: Our Havasu Falls Adventure
Havasu Falls had long been a bucket-list item for my sister Terry. I definitely wanted to go, but the thought of backpacking—a completely new experience for me—was both exciting and daunting. Terry and her husband are seasoned backpackers, and Havasu Falls, nestled deep in the Havasupai Indian Reservation, is only accessible by hiking in. This meant carrying everything in and carrying everything out—an adventure in every sense.
Before COVID, obtaining permits for this hike was nearly impossible. When the pandemic hit, the Havasupai tribe closed the campground for three years. Then, in early 2023, Terry learned they were reopening and managed to secure four permits for August—one for herself, her husband, their son, and his friend. I wasn’t included. I wasn’t sure whether to be disappointed or relieved—August in the Arizona canyon means brutal heat, and with a ten-mile (posted) hike each way (that clocked on our phones as 12), it’s a challenge. But fate had other plans. A few months later, Terry was able to snag an additional permit for me. Now, I had to embrace the excitement and prepare for the journey!
Then, as our departure neared, so did Hurricane Hilary, set to impact the area exactly when we planned to hike and camp in a canyon known for flash flooding. After some discussion, we decided to go anyway.
We arrived in Peach Springs, Arizona, checked in for our permits, and attempted to rest before our early morning hike. The plan was to begin at 4 a.m. to avoid the worst of the heat, but we faced an unexpected delay—the trail had been closed the night before due to flooding. With no cell reception at the campground, we had no way of knowing what to expect, but were finally able to start our hike an hour later than planned.
We set off in the darkness, guided by headlamps. The first two miles were a steep descent of 1,800 feet through switchbacks into the canyon—probably mentally best that we couldn’t see the full drop in the dark! After that, we had six miles of winding canyon trail leading to the village of Supai, followed by another two miles to the campground. Depending on where you find a campsite, the total hike can stretch up to an additional two miles. By 9 a.m., we arrived at the campground, exhausted but exhilarated. The previous day's flooding meant we had to camp on high ground, but we were lucky—the water had already transformed back into its famous vibrant blue. We secured a beautiful spot near the riverbank and close to the spring for drinking water, took a well-earned break, and then set off to explore Havasu Falls and Mooney Falls.
The next morning, we woke early to start out on the seven-mile round-trip hike to Beaver Falls. To get there, we had to navigate the caves, chains, and makeshift ladders down the side of Mooney Falls—a thrilling experience not for the faint of heart.
The trail to Beaver Falls wound through the canyon with multiple river crossings and sketchy ladders, but it’s worth every step. We spent time swimming in the falls, soaking in our surroundings. Our early start paid off, we learned that shortly after we set out, rangers closed the trail to later hikers. We also lucked out with the weather. Instead of the typical scorching August temperatures exceeding 100 degrees, we enjoyed an overcast mid-80s.
On our third day, we hiked back up towards Supai to visit Fifty Foot Falls and Little Navajo Falls. These waterfalls are less frequented, hidden gems requiring a bit of effort to find, but they were absolutely worth it. Due to the hurricane’s unpredictable flooding risks, we weren’t allowed to hike to the confluence of the Colorado River, but we had already experienced so much that we hardly felt like we missed out.
On the final morning, Terry and I opted to ride out on the mules, while the guys hiked back. We met them at the trailhead, before heading to the airport to fly home.
It was an unforgettable adventure—challenging, breathtaking, and absolutely worth it. The beauty of Havasu Falls is something you have to see to believe, and the journey to get there makes it all the more rewarding. We have some pretty funny memories including my nephew trying to force everyone to eat all the snacks so he didn’t have to hike them back out of the canyon… and some of us less experienced hikers carrying in an item more experienced backpackers might not take…like my full sized (but empty) deodorant, and my nephew’s friend’s electronic toothbrush.
